With an early start, and the opportunity to leave the track set out for the following meeting, a great track was laid out, with ripple mats, double incl tabletop, oops section and wooden jumps. 80% carpet, 20% slippy floor.
2WD
TQ was contested by Myself (X6), Jeff (C4.1) and Paul (Durango) all night. David Pack running his new X6 showed early promise, with new car syndrome, but DNF'd twice whie on good runs, snapping while giving it large over the double.
I TQd, then Paul, then Pack, then Jeff.
Here is Pack on track with his new X-6 from Santa :
2WD Pack @ Seaham
2WD Final : A lap 1 mistake from me on the table top finished my challenge. Jeff and Paul then fought for the lead, with myself managing to recover from last to get 3rd.
1: Jeff
2: Paul
3: Me
4: Pack
4WD
My round 1 time 19 309 looked like TQ, until Jeff's late Round 4 time of 19 303, with myself improving to a 19 306.
It looked like it would be close between a lot of drivers, with Jeff, Paul, Me, and the quicker Durango of Phil Showler ahead of Pack for a change.
David Pack was subject to some Race director penalties for severe track cutting.
Here is a video of Pack and Phil on track in qualifying:
4WD Pack & Showler @ Seaham
In the final, It was Jeff on Pole, followed by myself for most of the race.
A small mistake from myself let Jeff have a 5 second lead, however Jeff made the same mistake a few laps later, which allowed me to take the lead, and hold on for the win.
1. Me
2. Paul
3. Jeff
All in all, great racing, a really good laugh, and great promise for more great racing to come. Thanks for the tin of Quality Street from Jeff...... and for the laughs.
Thursday 29 December 2011
Tuesday 12 April 2011
My Tamiya TRF511 build
I have been trying to decide what 4wd car to run this year, and having had a TRF501X for 4 years now, and a brief spell with a TRF511 last year, and an even briefer spell with a Durango DEX410, Ive settled on another TRF511, prefering it over the TRF502 for various reasons.
My friend is running a TRF502 this year, so it will be a good comparison.
I have ordered the TRF511 kit, and the following hopups, to run the car in the UK national series, and UK North East regional series.
Tamiya 53984 buggy racing wing
Tamiya 54133 trf511 body and fairing ver 1
Tamiya 53975 rear spring set
Tamiya 53974 front spring set
Much More 50deg Green orings
Tamiya 53979 piston rod guide set
Tamiya 54043 titanium coated rear damper shaft
Tamiya 54042 titanium coated front damper shaft
Tamiya 53977 1.3mm pistons
Tamiya 53978 1.4mm pistons
Tamiya 54063 12 degree castor block
Tamiya 53962 aluminium rear uprights
Tamiya 53971 Aluminium Steering Arm
Tamiya 53972 Aluminium Steering Bridge
Tamiya 53973 Aluminium Steering Base
Tamiya 53951 front one way
Tamiya 54006 front one way adapter
Tamiya 54023 37t one way pulley
Tamiya ABS system
Jaad Racing Titanium ball studs
Jaad Racing Ceramic thrust races
Rudebits Brass weight kit
Lunsford Titanium turnbuckles
RPM ball ends
Answer RC 3mm Grade 3 ceramic diff balls
Avid racing bearings (revelations - ceramic and stainless mix)
Tamiya 42143 Serrated Wheel nuts
Tamiya 53539 spacer set
Fibre-lyte 5mm front shock tower
Fredrik Emilson transmission housing (rear)
Screw kit - alloy / titanium and stainless steel where appropriate
Tamiya hop up upper shock mounts
RW Machined spur gear (theTamiya moulded ones are not round)
Anti roll bar kit
Alloy servo horn
Alloy servo mounts
Savox 1251 MG servo
LRP SXX ISTC
Tekin 5.5R redline brushless motor
Futaba Fasst receiver
AMB tiny lil transponder
LRP 50C Lipos
+ spares
My build will be limited as the option parts I have ordered will take time to arrive. A number of parts have been ordered from within the UK, however a lot is coming from Hong Kong and the USA, so shipping times will vary. I hope they arrive within the next week or so though, as I need to finish the car for the race meeting.
I will not document the build as per the manual, but try to highlight any additional steps I take to prepare the car.
I am not building the car following the order of the steps in the manual. The main things preventing this are my bearing kit is coming from the USA, and the Tamiya hopups are coming from Hong Kong. Also, my diff builds will have to wait until Answer RC get my ceramic balls in.
Step one for the manual is to prepare the chassis. As I am using LIPO batteries, I will not be filing the NiMh slots out. I have however, taken the edge off the front edge of the chassis, and the areas around the front alloy wishbone hangers. A smoother edge will prevent the chassis catching and delaminating on anything on the track, as the undertray may not provided enoough protection here as there is no lip on the tray in these areas. I done this by filing a rounded edge to the chassis, and sealing with super glue.
I treated the top of both shock towers in the same manner, to prevent it diggin in and snapping / delaminating when rolled.
All screws into aluminium on these cars have the tendancy to vibrate loose. To prevent this, a lot of people loctite the screws in, however this makes them difficult to get out, and stripped screws are a nightmare. I use hair gel or hair spray on the screws. Its a happy medium that means the screws dont vibrate loose, but they are not too difficult to remove.
I will not be using Tamiya grease where indicated in the manual. The driveshafts and hingepin bushes should have the grease on. This will attract dirt, dust and sand from the tracks, and cause excessive wear and failed lubrication. Instead, on the driveshafts, hingepin bushes, in the aluminium hingepin mounts, and on the diff outdrives where the driveshaft pins slide, I am coating in graphite dry lube, designed for this purpose. It adheres to the surface, and provides a lubricated low friction surface that is resistance to load baring and high temperatures.
I have decided to use Kyosho 2.5mm hex cap head screws for high stress areas, titanium 2 mm hex screws for medium stress areas, and blue alloy screws for other areas. I wanted all 2.5mm drive screws, for better driver location, however c/sunk screws are only available in 2mm drive, and I couldn't lcate 2.5mm titanium capheads.
So here is how I left the chassis last night (with Tony Evdoka's Rudebits brass weight lipo trays). I am hoping for some other bits arriving today, otherwise I am limited to driveshaft only building tonight.
Note the use of TRF501X plastic front and rear arms. The 511 flexible arms generate too much grip, and inconsistency for driving ability, so I have opted for the plastic TRF501X arms .... not as severe as going to a 501X graphite arm, but more rigid than a 511 arm.
I used the Tamiya shim set, to prepare my camber links, bumpsteer and wheelbase to Lee Martins Robinhood Raceway setup:
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/tamiya/setupt...RHR20100509.pdf
I intend to use this as a base setup, as it is high grip astroturf. However, I dont intend to run the heavy oil in the rear, I'll be going with a 30wt oil. The setup Lee went with here at RHR, was specific to that day where the grip was crazy high. I dont think the car needs calming down as much as this setup will, on a "normal" astro track.
The belt rollers in the centre bulkhead are intended to keep the belt from skipping on the pulley. he bearings do not need to be in contact with the belt. It is easier to set these bearings correctly while the bulkhead is exposed. Adjust the cams so the bearings are only just not touching the belt. It is difficult to tell if the bearing is touching or not, as it is dark in there. The best way to check is to take up the slack of the belt (pull it tight), and try spinning the bearing.
I built up the shocks, reaming out the plastic shock bottoms as per the tr******* guide:
http://www.trfracing.co.uk/page_1265187551237.html
I used the much more 50deg orings, apparantly the best in the business for longevity (not swelling up and wear resistance), minimum leaks and minimal stiction, after reading countless forums, and talking to a lot of drivers.
I used Associated Green slime to aid the shock build, and the Tamiya Rod guide hopup to ensure precise travel of the Ti coated gold shock shafts, which will be tougher and smoother than the weaker items supplied in the kit (I've snapped a few kit items on my TRF501X, and the gold ti coated ones seemed more robust when I upgraded.)
As per the setup sheet, I went for 1.3 and 1.4 pistons. These pistons are more precise than the kit items, being machined rather than moulded, and allow a more accurate damper setting, as less oil will get around the outside of the piston.
Ill be putting on yellow springs rear, and blues front, again deviating slightly from Lees setup, for reasons mentioned earlier.
The car is still a long way from being ready, with only a week to go to the national race.
Iv'e got my fingers crossed for Diff balls and shock towers being delivered today.
Any comments, or helpful tips are welcome.
Having build up all of the major components, I fitted them all to the chassis, using hardened steel / ti / aluminium screws where best suited.
I drilled and counter sunk the chassis, to fit the centre brass weight kit from Rudebits, and tried my LIpos in. they wouldnt go in. It then dawned on me that the centre bulkhead needs some cutting / filing, in order to mount Lipos in this chassis. I knew this at the start of the build, and it slipped my mind. So everything had to come out of the car again, so I could take the centre bulkheads out. What a pain in the neck... so note to others out there, do this mod first.
I reassembled the car, and went about fitting my electrics. I am notorious for having messy electrics installs. I have tried my best for a neat install here, however I do go for function over appearance. I tend not to hide wires, especially the motor wires, as I'd like enough movement on the wires to allow the motor or speedo to swing clear of the car should I need to work on them.
On final inspection, I wasnt happy with the fit of the RPM ball cups on the JAAD Ti ball studs. In the past, I have used HPI or Schumacher ballstuds, and the RPM ball cups have been brilliant, with free movement, good strength, and no popping off in collisions. However, on the JAAD Ti, and the 3 racing (poor quality) ti ball studs I had in reserve, they were not as free as I would have liked. Due to the nature of the RPM ball cups, they will not wear in. I connected the battery, and tried the steering, and the servo was buzzing a bit too much, indicating the steering was binding too much. I decided to fit Hudy ball cups I had in reserve, these are very strong, and free moving on the Ti balls, but I have no idea how resistant they will be to popping off in a collision.
I ran the diffs in, by setting the car down with the two left hand wheels on the floor, and propped it up so the right hand wheels were in the air. This is an important step for good performing, and long lasting diffs. I set the trim to 30% throttle, and let it run for 10 minutes. I readjusted the diff, per the TRF diff build guide..... done.
So here is the finished car...... camber links not adjusted properly in these pictures.
Bodyshell is not yet done.
... and so I've got my 4WD car ready for the first UK national this weekend......
with 120 drivers attending (that is finals A down to L (10 cars per final), I will be over the moon with an H final (top 80), that is my aim for my first national, and first time out with this car.
My friend is running a TRF502 this year, so it will be a good comparison.
I have ordered the TRF511 kit, and the following hopups, to run the car in the UK national series, and UK North East regional series.
Tamiya 53984 buggy racing wing
Tamiya 54133 trf511 body and fairing ver 1
Tamiya 53975 rear spring set
Tamiya 53974 front spring set
Much More 50deg Green orings
Tamiya 53979 piston rod guide set
Tamiya 54043 titanium coated rear damper shaft
Tamiya 54042 titanium coated front damper shaft
Tamiya 53977 1.3mm pistons
Tamiya 53978 1.4mm pistons
Tamiya 54063 12 degree castor block
Tamiya 53962 aluminium rear uprights
Tamiya 53971 Aluminium Steering Arm
Tamiya 53972 Aluminium Steering Bridge
Tamiya 53973 Aluminium Steering Base
Tamiya 53951 front one way
Tamiya 54006 front one way adapter
Tamiya 54023 37t one way pulley
Tamiya ABS system
Jaad Racing Titanium ball studs
Jaad Racing Ceramic thrust races
Rudebits Brass weight kit
Lunsford Titanium turnbuckles
RPM ball ends
Answer RC 3mm Grade 3 ceramic diff balls
Avid racing bearings (revelations - ceramic and stainless mix)
Tamiya 42143 Serrated Wheel nuts
Tamiya 53539 spacer set
Fibre-lyte 5mm front shock tower
Fredrik Emilson transmission housing (rear)
Screw kit - alloy / titanium and stainless steel where appropriate
Tamiya hop up upper shock mounts
RW Machined spur gear (theTamiya moulded ones are not round)
Anti roll bar kit
Alloy servo horn
Alloy servo mounts
Savox 1251 MG servo
LRP SXX ISTC
Tekin 5.5R redline brushless motor
Futaba Fasst receiver
AMB tiny lil transponder
LRP 50C Lipos
+ spares
My build will be limited as the option parts I have ordered will take time to arrive. A number of parts have been ordered from within the UK, however a lot is coming from Hong Kong and the USA, so shipping times will vary. I hope they arrive within the next week or so though, as I need to finish the car for the race meeting.
I will not document the build as per the manual, but try to highlight any additional steps I take to prepare the car.
I am not building the car following the order of the steps in the manual. The main things preventing this are my bearing kit is coming from the USA, and the Tamiya hopups are coming from Hong Kong. Also, my diff builds will have to wait until Answer RC get my ceramic balls in.
Step one for the manual is to prepare the chassis. As I am using LIPO batteries, I will not be filing the NiMh slots out. I have however, taken the edge off the front edge of the chassis, and the areas around the front alloy wishbone hangers. A smoother edge will prevent the chassis catching and delaminating on anything on the track, as the undertray may not provided enoough protection here as there is no lip on the tray in these areas. I done this by filing a rounded edge to the chassis, and sealing with super glue.
I treated the top of both shock towers in the same manner, to prevent it diggin in and snapping / delaminating when rolled.
All screws into aluminium on these cars have the tendancy to vibrate loose. To prevent this, a lot of people loctite the screws in, however this makes them difficult to get out, and stripped screws are a nightmare. I use hair gel or hair spray on the screws. Its a happy medium that means the screws dont vibrate loose, but they are not too difficult to remove.
I will not be using Tamiya grease where indicated in the manual. The driveshafts and hingepin bushes should have the grease on. This will attract dirt, dust and sand from the tracks, and cause excessive wear and failed lubrication. Instead, on the driveshafts, hingepin bushes, in the aluminium hingepin mounts, and on the diff outdrives where the driveshaft pins slide, I am coating in graphite dry lube, designed for this purpose. It adheres to the surface, and provides a lubricated low friction surface that is resistance to load baring and high temperatures.
I have decided to use Kyosho 2.5mm hex cap head screws for high stress areas, titanium 2 mm hex screws for medium stress areas, and blue alloy screws for other areas. I wanted all 2.5mm drive screws, for better driver location, however c/sunk screws are only available in 2mm drive, and I couldn't lcate 2.5mm titanium capheads.
So here is how I left the chassis last night (with Tony Evdoka's Rudebits brass weight lipo trays). I am hoping for some other bits arriving today, otherwise I am limited to driveshaft only building tonight.
Note the use of TRF501X plastic front and rear arms. The 511 flexible arms generate too much grip, and inconsistency for driving ability, so I have opted for the plastic TRF501X arms .... not as severe as going to a 501X graphite arm, but more rigid than a 511 arm.
With the arrival of my bearing set, shock parts, and front and rear hubs, I continued my build last night.
Everything is going together really well. I built the driveshafts, having coated them in dry graphite spray, and fitted them in the alloy hubs. Note the JAAD titanium ballstuds, these are much stronger than the kit items.
Everything is going together really well. I built the driveshafts, having coated them in dry graphite spray, and fitted them in the alloy hubs. Note the JAAD titanium ballstuds, these are much stronger than the kit items.
I used the Tamiya shim set, to prepare my camber links, bumpsteer and wheelbase to Lee Martins Robinhood Raceway setup:
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/tamiya/setupt...RHR20100509.pdf
I intend to use this as a base setup, as it is high grip astroturf. However, I dont intend to run the heavy oil in the rear, I'll be going with a 30wt oil. The setup Lee went with here at RHR, was specific to that day where the grip was crazy high. I dont think the car needs calming down as much as this setup will, on a "normal" astro track.
The belt rollers in the centre bulkhead are intended to keep the belt from skipping on the pulley. he bearings do not need to be in contact with the belt. It is easier to set these bearings correctly while the bulkhead is exposed. Adjust the cams so the bearings are only just not touching the belt. It is difficult to tell if the bearing is touching or not, as it is dark in there. The best way to check is to take up the slack of the belt (pull it tight), and try spinning the bearing.
I built up the shocks, reaming out the plastic shock bottoms as per the tr******* guide:
http://www.trfracing.co.uk/page_1265187551237.html
I used the much more 50deg orings, apparantly the best in the business for longevity (not swelling up and wear resistance), minimum leaks and minimal stiction, after reading countless forums, and talking to a lot of drivers.
I used Associated Green slime to aid the shock build, and the Tamiya Rod guide hopup to ensure precise travel of the Ti coated gold shock shafts, which will be tougher and smoother than the weaker items supplied in the kit (I've snapped a few kit items on my TRF501X, and the gold ti coated ones seemed more robust when I upgraded.)
As per the setup sheet, I went for 1.3 and 1.4 pistons. These pistons are more precise than the kit items, being machined rather than moulded, and allow a more accurate damper setting, as less oil will get around the outside of the piston.
Ill be putting on yellow springs rear, and blues front, again deviating slightly from Lees setup, for reasons mentioned earlier.
The car is still a long way from being ready, with only a week to go to the national race.
Iv'e got my fingers crossed for Diff balls and shock towers being delivered today.
Any comments, or helpful tips are welcome.
I resumed, and completed my build last night. I decided to complete the build, without having some of the upgrade components. One main component I still have not received is my 5mm front shock tower, I will phone fibrelyte today, and check on the status, and add a 5mm rear shock tower to the order.
The diff build went well, using ceramic diff balls and preassembled ceramic thrust race. Remember its black grease on the thrust race, and diff grease on the diff balls. I used Lee Martin's excellent diff build guide. Following this to the letter, including trimming the pulley of the nobbles, results in a near perfect diff.
trfracing.co.uk/page_1265187551237.html
I then tried it with the next diff. At the point where it says fully tighten the diff, and then back off.... my diff bolt snapped when fully tightening. I decided to take a different aproach, and tighten until I felt it was right (as I have done in the past), this avoids putting too much pressure on the diff components.
Here are my finished diffs, and one snapped diff screw:
The diff build went well, using ceramic diff balls and preassembled ceramic thrust race. Remember its black grease on the thrust race, and diff grease on the diff balls. I used Lee Martin's excellent diff build guide. Following this to the letter, including trimming the pulley of the nobbles, results in a near perfect diff.
trfracing.co.uk/page_1265187551237.html
I then tried it with the next diff. At the point where it says fully tighten the diff, and then back off.... my diff bolt snapped when fully tightening. I decided to take a different aproach, and tighten until I felt it was right (as I have done in the past), this avoids putting too much pressure on the diff components.
Here are my finished diffs, and one snapped diff screw:
Having build up all of the major components, I fitted them all to the chassis, using hardened steel / ti / aluminium screws where best suited.
I drilled and counter sunk the chassis, to fit the centre brass weight kit from Rudebits, and tried my LIpos in. they wouldnt go in. It then dawned on me that the centre bulkhead needs some cutting / filing, in order to mount Lipos in this chassis. I knew this at the start of the build, and it slipped my mind. So everything had to come out of the car again, so I could take the centre bulkheads out. What a pain in the neck... so note to others out there, do this mod first.
I reassembled the car, and went about fitting my electrics. I am notorious for having messy electrics installs. I have tried my best for a neat install here, however I do go for function over appearance. I tend not to hide wires, especially the motor wires, as I'd like enough movement on the wires to allow the motor or speedo to swing clear of the car should I need to work on them.
On final inspection, I wasnt happy with the fit of the RPM ball cups on the JAAD Ti ball studs. In the past, I have used HPI or Schumacher ballstuds, and the RPM ball cups have been brilliant, with free movement, good strength, and no popping off in collisions. However, on the JAAD Ti, and the 3 racing (poor quality) ti ball studs I had in reserve, they were not as free as I would have liked. Due to the nature of the RPM ball cups, they will not wear in. I connected the battery, and tried the steering, and the servo was buzzing a bit too much, indicating the steering was binding too much. I decided to fit Hudy ball cups I had in reserve, these are very strong, and free moving on the Ti balls, but I have no idea how resistant they will be to popping off in a collision.
I ran the diffs in, by setting the car down with the two left hand wheels on the floor, and propped it up so the right hand wheels were in the air. This is an important step for good performing, and long lasting diffs. I set the trim to 30% throttle, and let it run for 10 minutes. I readjusted the diff, per the TRF diff build guide..... done.
So here is the finished car...... camber links not adjusted properly in these pictures.
Let me know what you think. I'd especially like some comments on my wiring, and any suggestions, tips, or faults you can spot with the car in general.
Bodyshell is not yet done.
... and so I've got my 4WD car ready for the first UK national this weekend......
with 120 drivers attending (that is finals A down to L (10 cars per final), I will be over the moon with an H final (top 80), that is my aim for my first national, and first time out with this car.
Wednesday 30 March 2011
Worksop Rd 6 27th March 2011
Last Sunday was the final round of the Worksop series for 2011.
Not to break with tradition, a late night in The Mill Inn, combined with the clocks going forward, resulted in maximum tiredness the next day........ not that we can use this as an excuse, as Danny Mcgee TQ'd the meeting after leaving the pub at the same time.
...and makes the shell more sliipery....
...and done... aerodynamically perfect.....
The track was very flowing, with two awkward tabletops which caught a lot of people out. So how did the lads get on?
Well, I duidnt manage to catch all of the action, as we were all bunched together in the heats, so I was busy racing. But here's what I saw:
David Pack
His Durango looked quick and dialled early on, which it would considering me and Chris Green just sold ours. After the first 2 rounds, David had two decent runs in, despite citing poor cells for lack of punch (maybe a lesson to be learned here). His last 2 rounds were'nt so hot, and he qualified D1.
David suspected aerodynamic changes would help him....... everyone else suspected some talent might help him....
David trims his gurney...
...and makes the shell more sliipery....
Final position... D1
Chris Green
4WD
Having recently sold the Rango... Chris' had his BJ4WE out of retirement.
The car had good consistentancy. The problem with consistancy is that you need clean runs.. which Chris wouldve had if it wasnt for myself taking him out twice (sorry Chris, but my layshaft was broken and I had no brakes), and an out of control Durango taking him out in another run (broken shock shaft and cap).
Despite this, Chris managed a respectable qualifying position of C8.
Neat wiring ........
I think Chris got 4th in the C.
In 2WD, I didnt manage to catch much of Chris' racing, but his B4 looked sharp and consistent.
C final finish.
Chris Stewart
Chris was racing his newish TRF502 car, and was experimenting with setups, and is still waiting on a number of option parts for the car.
He had relatively clean qualifying runs (from what I can gather, as he was in my heat), but had trouble keeping the back of the car stuck to the track. Some extra 0.5 toe in bl,ocks on the back would've helped a lot from what I saw of it.
Looks neat.......
In 2WD, Chris' X-6 seemed to get better as the day went on. Suffering from a lot of understeer in rounds 1 and 2, the handling seemed to come on a lot in round 3. Chris then switched to pre glued skinny minipins for round 4, and the car looked sorted. C final.
Jeff Steel
For 2WD, Jeff was in my heat, so I didnt get to see his qualifying much. In round 1, he started att he back of the grid as car 10, and made his way through the field quickly, passing me (car 5) before the half way mark. Qualified C final, and won it?
4WD, from my marshalling position, Jeff's car looked the best out of all our cars, including Greg's (but Greg made up for it with his driving). Jeff's new TRF502 turned in well, held good corner speed on line, and got the power down really well on exit. Despite a few wild laps, with the car tumbling about over the big table top and the overlapped gym mats, Jeff qualified in the B final.
Natalie Williams
Chris Pattinson
2 New cars for myself at this meeting.
4WD
Having sold my Durango, and pre ordered a Schumacher CAT SX3, I brought my TRF501X out of retirement for this meeting. It had all been renewed, with new bulk heads, suspension components, diffs, belts and pulleys and bearings.
The car was predicable and safe from the off, but lacked the sharpness of the TRF511. The first 2 rounds were relatively poor, but rounds 3 & 4 saw me qualify C6, I was pleased with that considering the car was just pulled from the shelf and driven.
I had a bad final, despite being on the pace, I was tagged by following cars, and ended up finsihing C7
2WD
I was racing my X6 for the first time at Worksop, and was really pleased how it went. I had the new brass flywheel on the layshaft to counter any motor torque effect on the pitch of the chassis
I had to adjust my driving style, and my round 1 score reflected this. However, by the end of qualifying, I had two scores of 12, which qualified me 5th in the B final, which I was really pleased with.
Final position, B8
Stephen Adams
4WD, Stephen was on fire with the TRF511, and when following him with my 501, the 511 showed just how much more numble it was. This track suited Stephens committed driving, and it showed when he put some clean(ish) runs together. The car was jumping well, and turning well, and Ive just ordered one :o)
2WD
I know Stephen has had some reliability problems with his Cougar, but it seemed to go well today, and maybe shouldve qualified higher but for a few errors. The car looked well balanced with neutral handling, which allowed Stephen to push on as only Stephen can.
Neil Adamson
Neils well sorted TRF511 was putting in good times through qulifying, despite not looking as if it was having the best of runs, which shows the cars potential. The car looked light and nimble all day. Neil qualified ?? and finished up ??
In 2WD, I only got to see Neil's car in the C final as I was waiting to go on. A slow start left him chasing the pack, but he caught back up and finished C3 after a good drive. As with his 4WD, his X6 looked well sorted for the Worksop track.
Greg Williams
Last be definately not least, its the NE and Schumacher man of the moment Greg Williams
I've missed most of this series, but going into this, I knew Greg was up at the sharp end of the 4WD series.
His CAT SX2 looked dialled, if a little understeery, but I know thats how Greg likes it, and his pace was there from the start. Great qualifying runs (I only saw him marshalled once all day in 4WD qualifying when he put it on its lid through the twisty bit) put Greg in the A final.
In the final Greg showed the way for the rest of the Schumacher lads racing their new SX3s, with two top Schumacher drivers unable to match his pace. Greg finished top Schumacher 4WD on the day with the old car and top Schumacher driver in the series (4WD) with the old car.
Great results for Greg!
In 2WD, Greg was consistent, and fast, but not quite as dialled as in 4WD. He was in my qualifier, and final, so I didnt see a lot of him. I know Dave gibson pushed him hard int he B final, but Greg deserved the win.
Results to be confirmed.
Natalie Williams
I didn't get to see any of Natalie's races with checking my own cars & her being in a lower heat than me
however Barry said that she had a very up & down day, breaking her car in round one & being battered around quite a bit in her other 3 qualifiers.
She qualified low down in the F final & despite being "Blitzed" by Graham Blitzboy Smith she drove well to finish a creditable 4th
Chris Pattinson
2 New cars for myself at this meeting.
4WD
Having sold my Durango, and pre ordered a Schumacher CAT SX3, I brought my TRF501X out of retirement for this meeting. It had all been renewed, with new bulk heads, suspension components, diffs, belts and pulleys and bearings.
The car was predicable and safe from the off, but lacked the sharpness of the TRF511. The first 2 rounds were relatively poor, but rounds 3 & 4 saw me qualify C6, I was pleased with that considering the car was just pulled from the shelf and driven.
I had a bad final, despite being on the pace, I was tagged by following cars, and ended up finsihing C7
2WD
I was racing my X6 for the first time at Worksop, and was really pleased how it went. I had the new brass flywheel on the layshaft to counter any motor torque effect on the pitch of the chassis
I had to adjust my driving style, and my round 1 score reflected this. However, by the end of qualifying, I had two scores of 12, which qualified me 5th in the B final, which I was really pleased with.
Final position, B8
Stephen Adams
4WD, Stephen was on fire with the TRF511, and when following him with my 501, the 511 showed just how much more numble it was. This track suited Stephens committed driving, and it showed when he put some clean(ish) runs together. The car was jumping well, and turning well, and Ive just ordered one :o)
2WD
I know Stephen has had some reliability problems with his Cougar, but it seemed to go well today, and maybe shouldve qualified higher but for a few errors. The car looked well balanced with neutral handling, which allowed Stephen to push on as only Stephen can.
Neil Adamson
Neils well sorted TRF511 was putting in good times through qulifying, despite not looking as if it was having the best of runs, which shows the cars potential. The car looked light and nimble all day. Neil qualified ?? and finished up ??
In 2WD, I only got to see Neil's car in the C final as I was waiting to go on. A slow start left him chasing the pack, but he caught back up and finished C3 after a good drive. As with his 4WD, his X6 looked well sorted for the Worksop track.
Greg Williams
Last be definately not least, its the NE and Schumacher man of the moment Greg Williams
I've missed most of this series, but going into this, I knew Greg was up at the sharp end of the 4WD series.
His CAT SX2 looked dialled, if a little understeery, but I know thats how Greg likes it, and his pace was there from the start. Great qualifying runs (I only saw him marshalled once all day in 4WD qualifying when he put it on its lid through the twisty bit) put Greg in the A final.
In the final Greg showed the way for the rest of the Schumacher lads racing their new SX3s, with two top Schumacher drivers unable to match his pace. Greg finished top Schumacher 4WD on the day with the old car and top Schumacher driver in the series (4WD) with the old car.
Great results for Greg!
In 2WD, Greg was consistent, and fast, but not quite as dialled as in 4WD. He was in my qualifier, and final, so I didnt see a lot of him. I know Dave gibson pushed him hard int he B final, but Greg deserved the win.
Results to be confirmed.
Thursday 24 March 2011
BRCA UK National 2011
The 2011 UK Nationals entries have been confirmed.
Confirmed entries for Greg Williams, Neil Adamson, Jeff Steel, Chris Pattinson, and reserve confirmation for Chris Stewart.
It all kicks off @ Stotfold on 16th April in Neil's events shelter!
Confirmed entries for Greg Williams, Neil Adamson, Jeff Steel, Chris Pattinson, and reserve confirmation for Chris Stewart.
It all kicks off @ Stotfold on 16th April in Neil's events shelter!
2010 Videos
With the outdoor season nearly upon us, Ive started to upload some of the videos I took during 2010 Season.
I hope to take a lot more during 2011, covering BRCA nationals and North East Regionals.
First up .....The final round of last years BRCA national series - STOTFOLD.
A lowly 'H' final battle between following myself and Chris Stewart...
Southport National .... Good F final domination by Chris Stewart:
A bit of comedy gold here.... Chris Green at the F345s @ silverstone... sorry Chris.
But the bit at the end where you stop your car after the line, walk away and the car gets punted off somewhere gets me everytime.
Batley 4WD NE regional 2010
Myself and Gary Waller racing in the final.
Ill get some more put up, and photographs. Comments welcome!
I hope to take a lot more during 2011, covering BRCA nationals and North East Regionals.
First up .....The final round of last years BRCA national series - STOTFOLD.
A lowly 'H' final battle between following myself and Chris Stewart...
Southport National .... Good F final domination by Chris Stewart:
A bit of comedy gold here.... Chris Green at the F345s @ silverstone... sorry Chris.
But the bit at the end where you stop your car after the line, walk away and the car gets punted off somewhere gets me everytime.
Batley 4WD NE regional 2010
Myself and Gary Waller racing in the final.
Ill get some more put up, and photographs. Comments welcome!
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